Blugero Numero Uno
by lgallagher | Nov 21, 2008 |
What?s the hold up? Inspiration for starter?s; not that I need to be inspired rather I would like to inspire but I don?t know how to start. It sucks beginning a story in the middle but whatever; I need to utilize my thoughts or they?ll end up on my million-dollar backburner. It?s been said (by me); when people force ideas down your throat it?s usually because they couldn?t stomach them. Could you pass me the salt please?
I was visiting a friend on Oahu as the Vans Triple Crown contest on the north shore was taking place (11/13/08). We stopped by various team houses to visit his friends and I was able to observe (from a fly on the walls perspective) the unique and often convoluted anatomy of surfing; more specifically the unwritten moral code amongst surfers. I was reminded how prevalent the self-indoctrinated, unwritten law under which legions of surfers abide is; if not observed and obeyed expect a swift beat-down. The hierarchy amongst the pro and local north shore surfers is easily deciphered and explained with one single word; respect.
You snake a wave? Beat-down. You disrespect a Hawaiian? Beat-down. You show up unexpected at any one of the team houses (or any house)? Beat down. The violent consequence a bad decision incurs is predicated upon this unwavering structure of respect.
The significance certain pro surfers hold (be it last month or 1979) hasn?t and won?t diminish over time. Be it style, contest results or attitude; whatever these guys did that garnered respect at the time will always hold. Not only that, their influence is not taken out of context and compared to the progressive trajectory of contemporary surfing; rather it?s understood that the latter is a result of earlier influences.
If a young pro (or anyone) referred to Gerry Lopez as being old, washed up or insignificant compared to pros today? Beat down. The same goes for dozens if not hundreds of significant, aging surfers; when amongst their people they?ll never feel anything but love and respect.
Read between the lines, it?s good for you.
December 6th, 2008 on 4:41 pm
So do you ride the softest boots you can find? It stiffer boots would offer a similar support to highbacks. Do you think there is a middle ground where going to soft would hinder your control and riding, maybe even break some ankles? Do you think that there are any situations in which not using highbacks would inhibit your riding?
December 6th, 2008 on 4:43 pm
Too quick there. Meant to say it would seem that staffer boots would offer similar support. And could riding boots which were too soft hinder the effectiveness.
December 8th, 2008 on 10:31 am
o i feel sad for those who refuse to learn anything from this.